A Trip to the Oregon Coast

I've been going to Oregon a lot in the last couple of years.  Last year, I believe I went 8 different times.  Now that my parents are living on the coast, it's become my go-to spot for vacations (it always kind of was but now it's even more so).  Anyway, Jeff and I loaded up the dogs last week and headed to Oregon to stay in Yachats, our favorite getaway spot.

My initial plan for hiking on the coast was to hike from Washburne Campground to Haceta Head.  But months of lethargy since my backpacking trip in Oregon have resulted in my physical state being less than ideal, so I chickened out on this short (4.3 miles round trip) but hilly hike. But I did manage to do other little hikes.

As a kid living in Eugene, I went to the coast with my family at least once a month.  My grandmother's favorite spots were always Cape Perpetua and Haceta Head so I've been there many, many times but I always love going back.  Cape Perpetua is managed by the Forest Service and has a great visitor center and numerous hiking trails to enjoy.  Many of the trails meet up or follow the Oregon Coast Trail.  In fact, if I wanted I could hike from Yachats to Cape Perpetua and back.  It would be a long hilly hike but satisfying.  I really enjoy walking to places that I previously only ever drove to.  It's part of my desire to see things in a different way - lately I've been forcing myself to slow down and check things out more thoroughly and I'm enjoying it immensely.  It makes the "known" fresh and interesting again.

At Cape Perpetua, Jeff and I did the short hike out to the Giant Spruce.  It follows a stream, climbing gradually to the tree.  It was nice to be on a forested, duffy trail again.

Lovely little trail.  Built by the CCC in the 1930s, apparently.

I was fascinated by this trees growing out of a "nurse log."

This tree is growing out of a "nurse stump."

Jeff and dogs by the Giant Spruce - 40 feet in circumference. 

Wow.  Tall tree.

After Cape Perpetua, we went up to Haceta Head and walked the short trail up to the lighthouse - supposedly the most photographed lighthouse in the country.  I've been coming here forever but it's always a lovely sight.

Jeff loved the lighthouse symbol on this sign.

Nice view of the Haceta Head beach and assistant lightkeepers' duplex.

Lighthouse peeking out from the hill.

My kind of artsy photo of the lighthouse.

Other photos from our trip:

Stormy view from the north viewpoint at Sea Lion Caves.  That's Haceta Head in the distance.

The Alsea Bridge at Waldport. The historic bridge was demolished in the 1980s due to structural concerns but they kept the beautiful old lights and towers and incorporated them into the new bridge.  The light is solid glass that has solarized to a nice honey color (due to selenium in the glass).

Jeff checks out one of the towers at the end of the bridge.  As a historic preservation specialist, it makes me happy to see these old elements of the historic bridge preserved.

Mt. Shasta as we cruise south on I-5, heading home.

Advice to New Backpackers - The "Do's"

Following up my last post that was a bit on the negative side, here is my list of "Do's" for new backpackers:

Think hard about what you're trying to do
     a. Take a good, hard, honest look at yourself and your situation.  How much experience do you have outdoors?  How fit are you?  What is your inspiration for trying backpacking?
     b. What is your Plan B if you can't do what you set out to do?
     c. Make a list of all the things you'll need and calculate the cost.  I thought I had almost everything I needed for long distance backpacking but in the end, the only things I already owned that went with me were my backpack, compass, and Swiss Army knife.
     d. Be realistic about what you can handle.  If you're just beginning, try a practice hike that is rated "easy" or "moderate."  You may be surprised that even these trails aren't as "easy" as they're supposed to be - especially when you're carrying a heavy backpack.

Train before going
     a.  If you're already an athlete and run marathons before breakfast, great.  Otherwise, get yourself into at least decent shape.
     b.  Walk.  And then walk some more.  And then go walking again.  Being on your feet and moving is the best way to train for long distance backpacking.  I logged about 500 miles in training walks before I went to Oregon.  It goes without saying but walk with your backpack on, gradually building up to 35 pounds.
     c.  If you've never been backpacking and you plan to do a big trip, do at least one 3 day practice trip before you go.
     d.  Load your backpack with stuff and get used to putting it on and taking it off.  There's a technique to it.  Be careful - I almost through out my back while practicing with a 35 pound pack.  When I'm by myself and don't have a handy rock or tree stump to help, I pull the pack up onto my knee by the straps, slide an arm through, and push it around onto my back.
     e.  Practice loading your backpack.  Play around with where you'll put stuff and how you'll stack things in the interior.  The rule of thumb is light stuff on the bottom (usually your sleeping bag), heavy stuff in the middle (usually your food supply), middling weight stuff on top (various ephemera - I always kept my water filtration stuff on top where it was easy to get to).  Maybe I'm obsessive but I spent hours and hours at home packing and repacking my backpack, trying to find the right balance.  If your backpack is off balance on the trail, you'll notice it and it won't be fun digging everything out and readjusting.

Study your route
    a.  Look at maps, read trail journals - whatever it takes but become familiar with where you're going.  Have at least a basic idea of how far apart water sources are or sections that could be strenuous or long.  If you're new to backpacking, planning is super important.  REI does trail basics classes, so if you don't know how to read a map or use a compass, you might consider taking one.
     b.  Carry maps and a compass.  For the PCT, the Halfmile maps are awesome.  They not only show the trail but resupply points, camp spots, and water sources along the trail.  Halfmile and Guthook have also developed smartphone apps for the trail, which a lot of people rely on entirely.  I had them as well but used my maps most of the time to spare my phone's battery.  I also encountered a bunch of hikers who had been caught in a downpour that ruined their electronics.  Paper maps won't break if you drop them and don't need batteries.  I kept mine in a Ziplock bag in case of rain.

Get to know your gear really well
     a. Trying on that new backpack at REI with (hopefully) 30 pounds of sandbags in it is one thing - carrying it "for reals" is something else entirely.  My husband bought an Osprey backpack that fit great in the store but then he ended up despising it on the trail.  Load up your backpack with your backpacking gear and take a walk - even if it's just around the block.  Walk up some stairs, walk downhill, walk uphill, step over things, bend over, etc.  Do everything you can to see how it will feel in a variety of situations.  This should point out pressure points or other problems.  Don't be afraid to take the backpack back to the store if it doesn't work out. A good fitting pack is probably the most important piece of gear you'll have.
     b. Set up your tent in the yard and get in it.  Take it down and put it in its stuff sack.  Is it a pain to set up and take down?  Imagine setting it up in the wind or in a tight spot or in a hurry - will it work in these conditions?
     c. Try a few different outfits in various conditions.  Prior to backpacking, I had logged hundreds (maybe 1000s) of miles hiking for my job.  I had always worn army surplus pants, cotton cowboy shirts, merino wool socks, and hiking boots.  My practice hikes clued me in that this was not a good backpacking outfit.  I don't know why.  Possibly because backpacking involves hours of virtually non stop walking on trails whereas my job requires cross country "bushwacking" where protective clothing is a must.  Anyway, my old clothes didn't cut it for backpacking, which was a big surprise.
     d. Use your stove at home before going on the trail.  Try making some of your backpacking food with it.  Is it a pain to use?  Is clean up an ordeal (imagine being without a sink or soap)?

Wear light hiking shoes or trail running shoes
     a. Before the PCT, I was a staunch hiking boot person.  I tried trail running shoes after reading about lots of other hikers who had switched to them exclusively.  They're right, running shoes are the way to go.  They're lighter than boots and are more flexible, so your feet will be less tired at the end of the day.  The flexibility also means that you'll get fewer blisters from them.  The ankle support that boots are supposed to give you is a misconception that has persisted for too many years.  A good, supportive running shoe will give you just as much support without the added bulk of a boot.
     b.  Try out different styles and brands.  Give trail running shoes a chance.  Because of their flexibility, they will actually make greater contact with the ground than a pair of hiking shoes with heavy Vibram soles.  The only benefit of the Vibram soles being that they will last longer but a pair of running shoes should last at least 500 miles.
     c.  Try out different types of socks.  I used to always wear Merino wool socks until this summer when I discovered they were giving me heat rash.  I switched to synthetic Thorlo socks and haven't had a problem with heat rash or blisters.
     d.  Wear gaiters with your low hiking shoes or running shoes.  They will keep out dirt and debris and anything you can do to keep clean is well worth it.  Dirty Girls are the preferred gaiter of PCT hikers and I love mine too.
     e.  Buy your shoes a minimum of 1/2 size bigger than normal.  Most people go up a full size to account for the splaying or your toes and how swollen your feet get from a day of walking.

Carry nutritious food
     a.  It's tempting to bring lots of high calorie snacks on the trail but there is no way you'll be able to carry enough food to replace what you've burned (unless you're only going overnight).  On my Oregon trip, I made the mistake of bringing too much junk food - high calorie but not very nutritious.  Bring as much unprocessed, whole foods as you can.  It will need to be dehydrated to save weight but you'll be much happier than if you'd brought processed junk.
     b.  Experiment with the food you'd like to bring.  I discovered that I disliked almost everything I brought.  Your cravings may surprise you.
     c.  Bring supplements and take them consistently. A good multivitamin, some form of magnesium, and an electrolyte drink powder are a must.  I brought Emergen-C and Gatorade powder and enjoyed them thoroughly but didn't bring vitamins or magnesium and paid the price in cramping muscles.

Take care of yourself
     a.  Keep yourself as clean as you're able.  Switch out your socks, rinse out your shirt, empty the dirt from your shoes.  Carry wet wipes and take a "bath" every night - especially your private areas. Staying clean isn't just a good morale booster, it will help you avoid chafe, blisters, and sores.
     b. Pay attention to how you're feeling and take care of problems immediately.
     c.  Give yourself a break.  You don't have to keep up with everyone else and if you need a zero day, take it.  The trail's not going anywhere.
     d.  At least once a day, take your shoes off and rub your feet.  Let your feet air out and change your socks.

Have fun!
     a.  Take lots of pictures.  You may never be here again and what you're doing is amazing!
     b.  Look up and appreciate small moments.
     c.  Learn more about yourself than you ever knew before.
     d.  Gain wisdom and confidence.
     e.  Keep a journal so you can read back over your experience.
     f.  Keep your sense of humor and know that "it can always be worse and nothing lasts forever."
     g.  Learn new and weird skills like how to poop perfectly into your "cathole."
     h.  Sleep on the ground.  Drink water from the earth.
     i.  See the stars!
     j.  Get weird looks from day hikers.
     k.  Come home excited about running water and refrigeration.
     l.  Learn how bad your BO can really get.
     m.  Realize that all you really need is 35 pounds of equipment, food, and water.

Aww, time off the trail in a crappy motel.  Heaven.

Advice to New Backpackers - The "Do Nots"

With the popularity of the book, Wild, by Cheryl Strayed and the upcoming movie based on the book, folks are predicting a large increase in the number of people attempting the Pacific Crest Trail next year.  The Pacific Crest Trail Association has even started a separate page and blog to "deal" with the presumed upcoming influx of new backpackers.  Lots of seasoned backpackers are shuddering at the thought of so many "newbies" on the trail.  Fears range from "too many people on the trail" (and all the damage that can cause, especially in regard to trash and waste) to "the number of emergencies will increase."  Personally, I think it's great that the book and movie are inspiring people to hit the trail.  We live in a beautiful country with lots of wilderness areas that should be explored and experienced.

For this post, I thought I would offer some advice for people looking to hit the trail (or any trail) next year.  This is meant to be general advice, not a how-to or a gear guide.  I'm going to start with "don'ts," which seems a bit negative but I think there are quite a few misconceptions about backpacking and being outdoors in general.

Don't overpack.  Whether you're planning an overnight hike or an entire thru hike, the less weight you carry, the better your experience will be.  There are many, many things that people think they need for a wilderness adventure but in the end won't use at all.
     a. Personal protection.  Leave the handguns and bear spray at home.  You won't need them and they weigh too much.  Unless you have those things at the ready on a holster, they'll be useless to you anyway.  I use a SPOT emergency transponder in case I get into trouble.  But it also has the added benefit of tracking my progress so my friends and family know where I am (very useful if people are meeting you at trailheads).
     b. Cooking accessories.  Keeping in mind that lighter is better, the maximum amount of cooking accessories you will need are a stove (and fuel), a bowl/cup with screw on or locking lid, and a spoon/fork combo.  If the point of your trip is to make a gourmet meal at your campsite, then you might want to bring more but backpackers don't need anything else than the items listed.  I use my cup/bowl for everything from eating to drinking.  To clean it, add some clean water, put the lid on, slosh it around a bit, then drink the water.  Water is precious and you'll be getting the last dregs of food this way.
     c. Books.  Dead weight.  If you're planning on doing long distances, you will never have the energy to read while on the trail.  Cheryl Strayed brought several books with her and found time to read them but this is definitely the exception.
     d. Lots of extra clothes.  Backpacking is stinky, dirty business and you'll be tempted to bring extra fresh clothes.  Bring precisely what you'll need and nothing more.  Gauge this based on the time of year, obviously.  For summer, socks and undies are the only extra clothes you'll need (aside from rain gear and warm layers).
     e. Camp shoes.  There is a lot of debate about camp shoes and I did carry them this year in Oregon but I would definitely leave them behind next time.  I used mine primarily to access muddy water sources where I needed to wade out a bit - but my feet got muddy anyway.  If you're bringing camp shoes because your feet really hurt at the end of the day, you should maybe rethink your footwear choice.

Don't listen to the hype and HYOH (Hike Your Own Hike)
     a. Decide for yourself what kind of gear works best for you.  There is a lot of information out there about gear but until you try something out for yourself, you won't truly know if it works for you.  For example, I bought a pair of Brooks Cascadia running shoes (the most popular PCT shoe) for the trail but they did not work for me.
     b. Unless you're an ultra marathoner or an avid backpacker, don't expect to make "the big miles" right away.  You'll read lots of trail journals and blogs that talk about 30 or 40 mile days.  This is not realistic for most people and don't expect to be doing those miles right from the start.  Train before you go to gauge how much you can handle in a day but also use the first 3-4 days on the trail to get acclimatized.  At first, try not to do more than 12-14 miles/day.  Starting out too hard too fast is a sure way to get hurt and demoralize yourself.
     c. Hikers tend to get poetic about the trail and they also tend to gloss over the not-so-great stuff.  Their journal entries make it sound like every day is the most amazing day ever.  This isn't exactly true or honest.  If you have the right attitude, you'll surely have a great time but also be aware that there will be days where you're just not into it.  Don't let the bad days dissuade you from your goal.

You don't have to hike the Pacific Crest Trail.
     a. There are lots of long distance backpacking trails in the U.S.  Try doing one close to home - it'll be cheaper and you will get to see your area from a totally new perspective.
     b. If you're new to backpacking, I highly recommend you try a backpacking trip of 3-4 days before you tackle long distance walking. This will give you a chance to figure out if it's something you really like - with the added benefit of giving your gear a thorough test.

Don't prove the seasoned hikers right.
     a. Follow the principals of Leave No Trace.  Pack out everything you pack in.  If you carried it in, you can carry it out.  Bury your poop deep and way off the trail and far from water sources.  Stay on the trail - DO NOT cut the trail to get down (or up) a slope.  Trail maintenance crews work hard to keep the trail nice and you'll be causing erosion problems if you cut the trail.
     b. Don't foul water sources with your dirty clothes or dishes (see above about my "swish and drink" method of cleaning).  If you have to rinse something out or want to wash off, go way down stream from anywhere people would gather drinking water.
     c. Be polite.  Say "hi" on the trail.  Be courteous.  Don't burden other people with your problems unless it's a real emergency.  Yield to horseback riders.  The best way to do this is to step to the side where the horse can see you - don't stand behind a tree where the horse might be surprised by you.  Mountain bikers are supposed to yield to hikers but in my experience they rarely do.  It's much easier for hikers to step aside for them.

Don't quit in the first 3 days
     a.  The first few days on the trail are the hardest.  Your body is getting used to what you're doing and there will be some aches and pains associated with this period.  You probably will also be surprised by how tired you are and by how bad you're "sucking wind."  That's totally normal.  Just keep going and it will get better.
     b. Don't compare yourself to others.  There's always another faster hiker on the trail or someone who seems like they can power up the hills.  Hike Your Own Hike and don't worry about that stuff.

Next: The "Do's"  Yay!!

Me and my friend Melissa on the PCT south of Lake Tahoe this summer.  I learned a ton about my endurance and my gear doing practice hikes before attempting Oregon.

A great day on the PCT in Oregon.  Water that doesn't need to be filtered - woohoo!